Petzl Lead Climbing Championship – The Low Down!!
Back for its third year, the Petzl sponsored Lead Climbing Championship is a collaboration between one of the best known climbing equipment brands in the world, and four of the UK’s most respected climbing centres. With rounds in Manchester, Harrogate, Reading Climbing Centres and our new Huddersfield Climbing Centre, it is truly a national lead climbing competition!
Competitors can take part in one, two, or all of the championship rounds. Each round has a £1500 fund of prizes, in the form of top-flight equipment provided by Petzl.
Supported by Petzl and with Mr Steve McClure himself onsite, no other climbing competition is as well established in the community as the Lead Climbing Championships. The events offer the chance to rub shoulders with the climbing greats, whilst being at the friendliest, most enjoyable competition you can imagine.
With Junior (under 16), Adult & Veterans (40+) categories, both split into male & female, everyone will be competing against their peers. There is no extra cost to take part in the Petzl Lead Climbing Championships for our members, beyond paying the normal entry fee for each centre on the day. Non-members fee is £2 per scorecard.
Registration begins at 10am, but you can pre-register by email; please send us your name, date of birth and postcode to speed up your registration on the day. If you haven’t climbed at one of our centres before, please fill out an Adult registration Form or Under 18 Registration Form and bring it on the day. Anyone under the age of 18 must be accompanied by a competent adult belayer, as the qualifying rounds are not belayed by RCC instructors.
Rob Lloyd is already confirmed for setting the event but keep posted for more info on setters, holds and a more existing additions!
Right so here’s the deal for the agenda of out first ever Petzl Lead Climbing Championships
09.30 Doors open
14.30 Qualifiers close
15.00 Finalists announced
18.00 RCC Closes
The qualifiers will be run in the leading ladder style, 10 routes graded 5 – 8a, the higher the grade the more points! Your top 3 flashes will be your qualifying score and you only have 1 attempt so spend time route reading!.
Grade. Top. Bonus.
5. 10 5
6a. 20 10
6a+. 30 15
6b. 40 20
6b+. 50 25
6c. 60 30
7a. 70 35
7b. 80 40
7c. 90 45
8a. 100 50
Finals will be run as hold by hold score, 1 point for moving off hold, 2 points for touching next holds and 3 points for holding. 99 points for grabbing last hold then 100 for clipping the chains
A great comp not to be missed, register now!!!!
There is no extra cost to take part in the Petzl Lead Climbing Championships for our members, beyond paying the normal entry fee for each centre on the day.
Non-members fee is £2 per scorecard.
What a great night and what moves were being pulled! Thanks to all of you for attending and here’s to great league! For full results of round 1 please click here….
Next dates not to be missed….
On Saturday 3rd October the Junior British Lead Climbing Championships were held at Awesome Wall, Sheffield.
Over 120of the most talentedchildren from all over the country arrived to compete for the titles. RCC Academy was represented by Ewan and Joe in Boys category B, James in boys C and Catrin in girls B.
By 10 am the first of the 2 qualifying routes were underway on hard and challenging routes. Ewan and Joe had a stepped route in a corner. It looked really tricky and reachy but both boys did really well getting within 4 hold of the top. Joe was given a + point over Ewan and they found themselves in =5th and =8th respectively. James was also faced with a slightly overhanging stepped wall, he breezed past the first crux and climbed steadily just missing out on a top but securing himself a good 3rd. Catrin had the longest wait as she was last to go in the largest group. Catrin had a technical vertical route, and she had watched 7 of the girls in her group top the route so the pressure was on her to also top to stay in with a chance of making the cut for the final. Luckily Catrin held her nerve to become the 8th to top out. .
James and Catrin then swapped routes for their second qualifier, this meant that they could help each other out with the beta- and to great effect as they both then topped their second qualifying routes and made the cut for the finals. Ewan and James were on a sustained overhanging wall, with a mixture of horrible big sloping holds with a few horrible crimps here and there. This route had been used earlier in the morning by the older category A and Junior boys, only 3 boys had managed to top out which is a measure of how hard the route was! Ewan managed to get to the 7th clip as did Joe, by the smallest of margins Joe edged this route over Ewan which resulted in a 6th place finish for Joe after the 2 routes putting him into a finals spot and Ewan unluckily missing out finishing the competition in a creditable 8th.
Everybody then had some food and took the opportunity to watch some of the IFSC paraclimbing cup event that was happening alongside the BLCCs. Some amazing climbing was on show from athletes from all over Europe and further afield. Contests were keenly fought and won and the atmosphere was great.
Whilst Catrin, Joe and James were in isolation the route setters Steve MacClure, Yann Genoux and Alex Fry tweaked the routes for the finalists. Catrin and James were again sharing the same route, to the right of the main overhang. This route had been used by the older boys in qualifying but luckily a few more holds were added in as only Jim Pope had topped earlier! Joe however was on the hugely long dramatic comp wall in the centre of the building which was to be the test for all the other boys. The finalists are given just 6 minutes to view their routes before being taken back into isolation and brought out one by one to climb.
James attacked his final route from the start. Making and holding some big dynamic moves. He had obviously read the route well as he wasted no time getting up to the traverse across the overhang. At this point the cruel route setters had put some draining difficult campusing moves and James just slipped off the route having given it his all. Catrin, on the same route also made swift progress towards the roof traverse. Catrin had to move fast as there were 5 girls tied in joint first place from the qualifiers so the time taken could be a crucial decider. Catrin also slipped off the route here nearly at the same point as James (James did get a hold further than Catrin) but she had given it her all and could hang on no more! It should be noted that this route only had 1 top all day by Jim Pope. Many tried but everyone else was thrown off.
Joe was the first boy to try the mighty comp wall route. He climbed amazingly on a draining and complex sequence. He made it right up to the roof section and then was defeated by horrible holds on the horizontal roof.
RCC academy did themselves proud, they all climbed brilliantly and seemed to spend the rest of a great day smiling, chatting and (Joe and Ewan)flirting! Well done to all of them.
Final results for BLCCS
James Boys C 3rd
Joe Boys B 6th
Ewan Boys B 8th
Catrin Girls B 3rd
The BLCCs was also the final round of the Lead cup series
Final results for Lead cup
James Boys C 2nd
Joe Boys B 6th
Ewan Boys B 7th
Catrin Girls B 3rd
Full results here
Junior Lead Cup 2015 – https://www.thebmc.co.uk/media/files/Comps/JLC_14_15.pdf
Blog and Photo courtesy of Tanya Sage (Catrin’s Mum)
This October Half Term Reading Climbing Centre has a host of activities happening every day to keep the whole family active and entertained!
The half-terms activities include:
- Full day kids holiday club
- Daily Little Monkeys classes for 5&6 year olds
- Daily Rock Its classes for 7-11 year olds
- Family/friends Climbing Taster Session, to book at a time to suit you (as available)
For a full timetable of courses and to book online, please check our bookings page.